A West Coast Modern "Gem"

From the outside, St. Stephen’s Anglican Church looks unlike any other church in West Vancouver. With its dominant, geometric cedar-shake walls - which also serve as a roof - words such as dramatic, angular and bold might be used to describe this church at first glance. But despite its stunning exterior, nothing could prepare you for the visual feast that awaits you on the inside! One is greeted by a light-filled interior, with a dramatic and soaring geometric ceiling, exquisitely eye-catching chandeliers, and the piece-de-resistance … the most stunning stained-glass windows, made of faceted, gem-cut coloured glass, which create a jaw-dropping curtain of colour. Join us as we explore the history and features of this iconic architectural “gem” which is amongst the most significant mid-century modern churches in the world. It still stands today but is very much under threat in this world of declining religious affiliations, governmental pressures for affordable housing and developers’ drive for profits.

Side view of the 1973 60th Anniversary slab glass window designed by French Stained-Glass Master Andre Rault. This angle shows that each piece of glass is cut like a gem. Photo courtesy of Jennifer Clay

The History

St. Stephens Anglican Church, located at 885 22nd Street, is situated on the border of the Dundarave and Ambleside villages of West Vancouver and was founded to serve the entire District of West Vancouver, from the Capilano River to Horseshoe Bay.

1913

The roots of this church stem back to 1913, when Bishop de Pencier held a church service for 48 West Vancouverites at the Conservative Hall at 2423 Marine Drive (which subsequently became Sager’s Maple Shop and is now the Red Lion Bar & Grill).

0561.WVA.RAH - Conservative Hall, later known as Dundarave Hall, built in 1913 in the 2400 block of Marine Drive. 1913. Photo courtesy of West Vancouver Archives.

1914/1915

By 1914, the congregation had grown and a Parish Hall was built by the male parishioners, the Bishop and his son on a lot, purchased for $1600, at the corner of 22nd and Fulton. The building was dedicated on January 10, 1915.

125.WVA.THO - 1914 - The view north from Marine Drive  (formerly Keith Road) up 22nd Street (formerly Gordon Road). The first St. Stephen's Anglican church is visible on the right, and a carriage can be seen heading north up 22nd Street. Courtesy of West Vancouver Archives

1925

By 1925, the congregation had outgrown the Parish Hall so it was moved to the back of the lot, and a new Church, the parish’s first real church, was built. Designed by architect Hugh Hodgson, it was dedicated on November 29, 1925.  

418.WVA.HOD – 1925 - St. Stephen's Anglican Church, designed by Hugh A. Hodgson, taken soon after the building was completed. The view is from 22nd Street towards the front entrance and south transept. Courtesy of West Vancouver Archives

1967

The municipality of West Vancouver, looking for a civic square concept, negotiated with the church for a land swap, with St. Stephen’s Church trading its property at 22nd and Fulton for a new site on the west side of 22nd, almost across the street from its 1925 incarnation. Architects were retained, construction took place and the first service in the new building was conducted on April 14, 1968.

St Stephen’s Church shortly after it was built in 1967. Courtesy of St Stephen’s Church records

With its origin dating back to 1913, and up until the departure of its serving reverend and the subsequent disbanding of the congregation in August 2024, St Stephens was the oldest, continuously operating church in West Vancouver.

The Architecture

St Stephen’s Church was designed by the architectural firm Thompson, Berwick and Pratt, and specifically by Richard (Dick) Mann, the managing partner of the firm that was founded in 1908 as Sharp and Thompson. The firm played a substantial role in the development of architecture in Vancouver and throughout Canada and was a training ground for several famous Canadian architects including Barry Downs, Paul Merrick, Arthur Erickson, and Ron Thom. Of note, the church possesses the original architectural drawings and many photos of the church during and shortly after its construction. The construction work was done by W. H. Haebler & Co.

A portion of one page of the original site/floor plans for St Stephens by Thompson, Berwick and Pratt, Oct 25, 1966. Courtesy of Jennifer Clay.

While St. Stephen’s Church is architecturally striking on its own, it was designed to complement the neighbouring municipal Mid Century Modern Ice Arena (Carlsberg Jackson Partners, 1965) and the West Vancouver Community Centre whose original 1958 design was also by Thompson, Berwick and Pratt. It is thus an important piece of the Mid-Century Modern Municipal Triangle in West Vancouver.

St. Stephen’s Church is listed on the official West Vancouver Heritage Register and is included in “The West Vancouver Survey of Significant Architecture 1945 – 1975”. This Survey contains an interesting statement which speaks to the evolution of the architecture of churches in the mid-20th century:

Beginning in the 1950s, modern churches favoured an expressionistic aesthetic, with the roof becoming the dominant design feature. Structural design was derived from the solution of technical problems, especially the construction of large open span spaces conducive to revised liturgical procedures. These so-called structural necessities resulted in highly dramatic and emotive buildings, as evocative and mysterious as any traditional architectural forms. In retrospect, this indicated a movement away from a purely' modern' sensibility, and provides a conscious return to formal, historicist tendencies.

Further, the author of the West Vancouver Survey goes on to speak directly to the architecture of St. Stephen’s Anglican Church:

Following the 1960s form of expressionist architecture, this building displays a conscious attempt to define a new style that reflected modern liturgical procedures. As a reversal of traditional church buildings, the walls become solid, while the corners dissolve as glazed elements. The roof becomes the defining feature of the form, dramatically angled in a manner reminiscent of Frank Lloyd Wright's Beth Sholom Synagogue in Elkins Park, Pennsylvania.

Beth Sholom Synagogue, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, in Elkins Park, Pennysylvania. Source: Pinterest.

St. Stephen’s Church is widely recognized as West Coast Modern in design due to:

  • its bold roof-line with an unusual form and treatment reminiscent of a Mayan temple

  • the exterior cedar shingle roof with frosted glass infill panels that create a strong patterning of solids and voids.

  • its exposed interior geometric cedar ceiling cladding and imposing wooden beams.

  • its integrated exterior and interior design themes

  • its original metal chandeliers formed with plexiglass fins and an array of light bulbs and crosses.

  • its solid interior walls where the corners are pierced by “curtain of colour” stained “slab” glass by French master stained glass artist Andre Rault.  

West-Coast Modern Chandeliers. Photo courtesy of Jennifer Clay

And Last but Not Least - The Windows

The stained-glass windows in St Stephen’s are bold and unique!  Known as ‘Dalle de Verre” or slab glass, they were created by the master glazier Andre Rault (1912 – 1997) in Rennes, France. The windows are comprised of 1” thick faceted glass jewels which are five times heavier than traditional glass and leaded together to evoke a ‘curtain of colour’.  The design was inspired by the work of Henri Matisse and Fernand Leger.

The Rault family studio was based in Rennes, France. The family had been making stained glass windows since the 1800’s. Andre’s most important learning opportunity was during the two post-World War periods when the Rault studio restored stained-glass windows in hundreds of damaged churches. This work exposed him to the full gamut of French styles and designs used throughout the history of stained-glass in France. When the family ran out of war-damaged windows to repair, they turned to North America as a new market for their stained-glass designs and products.

It is important to note that the original windows in the 1968 St. Stephen’s Church were made of frosted glass. Despite the frosting, the light coming through was bright enough to create a glare. In the case of the windows directly behind the altar, they transmitted light directly into the eyes of the parishioners, creating much discomfort and forcing them to squint in order to see the Reverend at the altar.

Instigated by Reverend Wallace, and with the support of the parishioners, it was decided that, as part of the Churches’ 60th anniversary in 1973 (60 years from its 1913 founding), they would have a stained-glass window put in place of the frosted glass window behind the altar. The stained glass would filter the light and would add beauty to their church. They entertained cost estimates from 4 artists. The Reverend at the time was very influential in this decision, as he did not want to use traditional “figures” in the window design.

Stained glass windows from the 1925 church building, depicting religious figures. Photo courtesy of Jennifer Clay

Instead, the Reverend wanted a more modern design to match the West Coast Modern design of the church. He played a role in the design and took inspiration from the Coventry Cathedral which had a window with 195 panes ranging in colour from white to deep colours. In his discussions with the 4 bidders, Reverend Wallace described the window as a curtain of colour. Already back in the 1950s,  Andre Rault had been experimenting with the concept of slab glass, so he became the clear choice for the St. Stephen’s work, for the princely sum of $6600 installed.

1973 60th Anniversary Slab Glass window in St. Stephen’s church. Photo courtesy of Jennifer Clay

But the church did not stop there. In 1978, in celebration of their 65th Anniversary, money was donated by some of the congregation to fund an East Window designed in yellow to represent the sunrise, and a West Window in shades of red to represent the sunset.

1978 Yellow Window (at left). Photo courtesy of Jennifer Clay

1978 Red Window. Photo courtesy of Jennifer Clay

 Although the ancillary buildings of the church continue to serve as an important gathering place for local community groups, the church itself is no longer in use. This concerns North Shore Heritage greatly. There are rumours that this building might be replaced by a condo tower. We understand the need for more housing in West Vancouver but we believe that, with some innovative thinking, this iconic “gem” of a building can be saved, possibly through a density transfer! At the behest of the municipal government of 1967, the original 1925 building was demolished to make way for the West Vancouver Aquatic Centre. Let’s not let this iconic 1967 building also meet the same fate!

 With thanks to St. Stephen’s Church, West Vancouver Archives (Reto Tschan), North Vancouver Archives (Georgia Twiss) for their information and images.

Fun Facts:

  • The current 1967 church contains several items from the 1925 church including several gothic-revival pews, the altar, the processional cross, the font and in the narthex, the brass cross and the stained glass windows

  • The 1986 Bishop’s chair was designed specifically for St Stephen’s Sanctuary.

  • Reverend Wallace took inspiration for the slab glass windows from the restored Coventry Cathedral Baptistery Window, by John Piper - Coventry Cathedral c 1961 designed by John Piper and painted by Patrick Reyntiens.

  • The innovation of the slab stained glass was inspired by the earlier chunk glass work of artists Matisse and Leger, Fernand Léger, La Sainte Tunique c 1950.

Sources

  • Our 75 Years. A St. Stephen’s historical account of its Buildings. Published in 1989.

  • The Silver Jubilee Commemoration Document. Published 1938.

  • The Stained Glass Windows at St. Stephen’s Anglican Church. A report by Jan Harvey, March 25, 2019